I want to make a special note of the absolutely spectacular job done by Otero Routing Services for this trip. I had a wide range of things to see and do and Ric perfectly blended them with his own things and places. Designing the day’s route and keeping us on route in the criss-cross of streets and lanes is no easy task. A street can easily change names 4 times in less than a mile. Most of the street of Paris are marked with street names on lovely blue and white signs on the buildings but they are not readily visible and not 100%, especially when riding past them. Many streets you cant find them at all! It is easy to miss a turn or to think you have gone farther or less far than you have. But Paris rewards you with sights and wonders for those moments, as I mentioned before.
Altho there have had many routes created and managed over the years by Otero Routing Services, the ones on this trip were by far the best and most exhilarating. All this, even including the 20 minutes we got separated in London due to a mis-queue. Stopping along the way to check location and direction are all part of the discovery sur le route. Salut, Ric!!
Sunday, September 13, 2009
Did Dale find new things to import at great expense?
This is the question that I know is on the mind of more than one person. The answer should be obvious. So obvious, in fact, that it need not even be asked. And what is that answer? Of course he did! Echire butter, to begin. Unfortunatly, I learned of this in my book Culinaria France, so knew I was doomed. How often will I buy it? I don't know because the 2 blocks I brought back will hold me a while. I do wish to try the version in the wooden round box, which was not available in Monoprix nor at the Galleries Lafayette. Oh, the Galleries has a specatular central dome of amazing stained glass, from the day the building was first built in the late 1890's as one of Paris' Grand Magasins.
Back to the subject. The chocolate ganaches dusted with 100% cocoa and the star-shaped hazelnut chocolat noir smothered in dark chocolate from Angelina's on Rue de Rivoli are, fortunately, not available to buy from America! However, The La Maison du Chocolat's spectacular Champagne Truffles, their Tasse de Chocolat beads to melt into whatever you wish, both are available on-line.
Adding to my daily meals will be a wider variance of the famous baguette: tuna with cucumber; tuna with thin sliced hard boiled egg and tomato - atho I doubt I will be able to duplicate the amazing flavor of the very orange-yolked French eggs, to name just a couple.
Back to the subject. The chocolate ganaches dusted with 100% cocoa and the star-shaped hazelnut chocolat noir smothered in dark chocolate from Angelina's on Rue de Rivoli are, fortunately, not available to buy from America! However, The La Maison du Chocolat's spectacular Champagne Truffles, their Tasse de Chocolat beads to melt into whatever you wish, both are available on-line.
Adding to my daily meals will be a wider variance of the famous baguette: tuna with cucumber; tuna with thin sliced hard boiled egg and tomato - atho I doubt I will be able to duplicate the amazing flavor of the very orange-yolked French eggs, to name just a couple.
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Samedi
We have returned to Chicago a few hours ago. A nice flight back but the trip from the morning in Paris has stories! Last night I said goodbye to Paris? What? I was still there and more adventures to follow! Checkout was fun as I kept surprising the guy behind the counter with French. He was getting quite a kick out of it after a while. Not surprising, they did not make any adjustment for not giving us the big room on the top floor the first 2 nights and stuffing us into a regular room. Being Paris and not the US, they just don't view that as an inconvenience and not necessary to make an adjustment.
The shuttle arrived a little late but it was Saturday morning and Paris was still asleep. He stopped at a hotel nearby to get a schedule for the terminals and flights. What an unusual event! He was 21, we learned later, and really quite the energetic young man! He loved Bruce Willis movies - all 4 Die Hards, and cars and futball. When the Mazaratti came up behind us on the freeway, he pulled to the next lane at top speed so it would pass us and we could see it. Wow. What a sight. And the engine sounds! Too cool. I could not see the somewhat lesser sports car tailing it by just a few feet. OK, rewind. When he pulled to the side of the road and said he’d be right back (now a 2nd time) and dashed to a café with a counter on the sidewalk, ordering a café and croissant, now THAT is something you never expect to see! Ric and I really got a kick out of it and I wish I had raced up to order my own!
He commented on how they drive like lunatics, but then proceeded to race thru the mostly empty streets, nearly taking out a car on the expressway – not much different than those he complained about. Originally from Marseilles, he much preferred the quiet, ocean life to the crush of Paris, but a job is not easy in Marseilles.
I got into a big conversation with one of the flight attendants who also loves Paris and things French. It started when I saw her toss an unopened, individually-wrapped President butter gastromonique pat onto the cart rather than toss it into the trash. She keeps them and gets quite a haul sometimes. “Those Frenchies sure to know their butter fat!” She said she would get me some and later did not charge me for my 2nd 1664 bier. I got about 15 of the butter pats and I promised to think of her each time I ate one. We shared Paris and Parisian stories for 15 minutes, I am sure.
A safe landing and Sharon picked us up. A wonderful trip, for sure. I will still add stuff over the following days as I fill in stories and events skipped or simplified before. More pictures, of course, to follow. I hope you have enjoyed these as much as I did writing them.
Bonsoir!
The shuttle arrived a little late but it was Saturday morning and Paris was still asleep. He stopped at a hotel nearby to get a schedule for the terminals and flights. What an unusual event! He was 21, we learned later, and really quite the energetic young man! He loved Bruce Willis movies - all 4 Die Hards, and cars and futball. When the Mazaratti came up behind us on the freeway, he pulled to the next lane at top speed so it would pass us and we could see it. Wow. What a sight. And the engine sounds! Too cool. I could not see the somewhat lesser sports car tailing it by just a few feet. OK, rewind. When he pulled to the side of the road and said he’d be right back (now a 2nd time) and dashed to a café with a counter on the sidewalk, ordering a café and croissant, now THAT is something you never expect to see! Ric and I really got a kick out of it and I wish I had raced up to order my own!
He commented on how they drive like lunatics, but then proceeded to race thru the mostly empty streets, nearly taking out a car on the expressway – not much different than those he complained about. Originally from Marseilles, he much preferred the quiet, ocean life to the crush of Paris, but a job is not easy in Marseilles.
I got into a big conversation with one of the flight attendants who also loves Paris and things French. It started when I saw her toss an unopened, individually-wrapped President butter gastromonique pat onto the cart rather than toss it into the trash. She keeps them and gets quite a haul sometimes. “Those Frenchies sure to know their butter fat!” She said she would get me some and later did not charge me for my 2nd 1664 bier. I got about 15 of the butter pats and I promised to think of her each time I ate one. We shared Paris and Parisian stories for 15 minutes, I am sure.
A safe landing and Sharon picked us up. A wonderful trip, for sure. I will still add stuff over the following days as I fill in stories and events skipped or simplified before. More pictures, of course, to follow. I hope you have enjoyed these as much as I did writing them.
Bonsoir!
Wait, there's more!
Just a quick note. We have returned to Chicago a few hours ago. A nice flight back but the trip from the hotel to the airport in Paris has stories! Last night I said goodbye to Paris? What? I was still there and more adventures to follow! Just a teaser here to bring you back for the next installments. I will still add stuff over the following days as I fill in stories and events skipped or simplified before. More pictures, of course, to follow.
Friday, September 11, 2009
Late Vendredi
So, here I sit. All packed. Bike, clothes, chocolates, souvenirs. Ric is putting the last minute touches on his packing. There are hundreds of feelings and things I experienced. I could not even begin to to enter it here. I cannot wait to tell the stories. You will be able to hear it all in my voice!!
But, strongly, I was feeling poorly about not tipping Christopher at Mellifere just up the street from the hotel from the other night - I wanted to show him how much I appreciated him. So I slipped out onto the street and up a few doors to the restaurant. “Bonsoir! Est Christopher cette?” "Oui." I went inside. I greeted him and he greeting me with much warmth, like a new friend. I said I wanted to thank him for the dinner and his assistance the other night for making our dinner fantastic. He said it was his pleasure and when he saw the Euro coins in my hand, he said put his hand on top of mine, closing my hand and said “No, that is not necessary. You are a friend!” My heart was filled instantly with such warmth and joy. I shook his hand firmly and warmly, putting my left hand on top. “Merci, Christoff.” I told him he was a great ambassador for Paris and I would tell everyone. He complimented me in return, saying I was a great ambassador for the United States of America. I was genuinely touched and deeply. The other staff stood nearby, all smiling, including the guy I talked to originally on the street when I walked up. What a wonderful way to close the day. Au revior, Paris et le Parisians! You have been everything we expected and dreamed these past months. Gracious, welcoming, impressive, warm, stunning, majestic, fun, delightful and enjoyable. My heart is filled to overwhelming.
But, strongly, I was feeling poorly about not tipping Christopher at Mellifere just up the street from the hotel from the other night - I wanted to show him how much I appreciated him. So I slipped out onto the street and up a few doors to the restaurant. “Bonsoir! Est Christopher cette?” "Oui." I went inside. I greeted him and he greeting me with much warmth, like a new friend. I said I wanted to thank him for the dinner and his assistance the other night for making our dinner fantastic. He said it was his pleasure and when he saw the Euro coins in my hand, he said put his hand on top of mine, closing my hand and said “No, that is not necessary. You are a friend!” My heart was filled instantly with such warmth and joy. I shook his hand firmly and warmly, putting my left hand on top. “Merci, Christoff.” I told him he was a great ambassador for Paris and I would tell everyone. He complimented me in return, saying I was a great ambassador for the United States of America. I was genuinely touched and deeply. The other staff stood nearby, all smiling, including the guy I talked to originally on the street when I walked up. What a wonderful way to close the day. Au revior, Paris et le Parisians! You have been everything we expected and dreamed these past months. Gracious, welcoming, impressive, warm, stunning, majestic, fun, delightful and enjoyable. My heart is filled to overwhelming.
Vendredi
A morning of errands…my most favorite thing to do. First another browse through the Gallery. A book on the History of Le Tour de France, a photographic history of Paris caught my eye. Then a stop at the grocer, but Maison du Sandwich for a tuna baguette and a raspberry tarte. Then to the boulangerie for café au porte. Emmthaler cheese, President butter, the tarte, café, and half the tuna baguette for breakfast. Our first stop was Anglelina’s for their famous L’Afrique hot chocolate on the Rue de Rivoli. The best I have every had. Very rich and thick with a simple yet strong flavor. You made sure you drank every drop. We selected chocolate treats the names I can’t even remember. Mine were both very dark chocolate. To eaten later. Ric got 2 treats not unlike the Trinidad from Fannie May. Only very large and very delicious! Then to Pierre Herme in St. Germain for some of their macarons. Both stops suggested by a friend. Stored to be eaten later.
The next stop is up north, to a bike shop to discuss renting a track bike for our next trip to Paris. This was a hole in the wall! Very tiny, with a pack of really decrepit bikes secured to each other at the curb. Not a great area of Paris, run down a bit and some buildings boarded up. Gare Magenta is there. I will look into it more later. Along the way, there was an extended bus/bike lane with a handful of us on bikes. I ended up next to a 45-ish woman. “Bonjour!” “Bonjour! A nice day for a bike ride!, she responded! Indeed. We chatted a bit and then have a nice day! Lovely little encounter! So many to be had here in Gay Paris.
The bike ship was closed until 15:37 apres-midi. 15:37?!?! Even 2 local older guys who stopped “Cyclista! If you want to know when it is open, ask next door!” I responded, “they open at 15:37.” “37??? It says so?” Heartly laughter, a bit incredulously. We all laughed. Of course, now it is where we are from, where we are going, riding our bikes! Wow and the usual excitement and interest all of Paris seems to have for us being there in full uniform and on nice bikes. I really almost expect it now but am ALWAYS delighted. “Montmartre? OH!” and a gesture to indicate the steep climb! Nothing! I respond. They look at my legs…ah, we see!” Man, they are really into cycling.
Actually, the next stop was the Art Nouveau Metro station entrance at the Abbesseyes. But first, a fight on the street, complete with cops trying to break it up. Of course, Ric wants to stay and watch and VIDEO it with his camera, held up so everyone can see what he is doing. A real videographer would have quietly turned it on and held it unobtrusively at his hip. Jim Fogerty style. So, soon, there were a half dozen guys upset he was shooting and one grabbed his bag to take the camera. We left quickly, but it was on the scraping edge of getting real ugly. We learn later from the nice gal at the Galleries Lafayette that it is not a good neighborhood.
The Metro was wonderful, the park charming, the neighborhood delightful. #2 of 3. The third one is near us but poorly documented on the Internet. We passed it on Tuesday but could not relocated it. Next time! On the way to the next stop, we were too far north. But what have we learned? Not in the right spot, something will reward you!! This reward? The location of the restaurant in the movie Amelie! I had forgotten to mark this as must-see, but there it was! Café de 2 Moulins!!! I shreaked and lept from the bike. Clearly too excited and I overexposed the photos! They knew what they were and I lept about without causing so much as a movement in the staff or patrons.
On to the famous Moulin Rouge. Wow. It is real. Seeing it in daylight removes some of the mystic, but very cool. We sat in the roundpoint, chatting and helping others take photos of themselves. The sun bathed us in a warm glow…
Ah, and now to Maison du Chocolat!!! OMG!!! Their Sorbet Chocolat is AMAZING! The exact words of the clerk who checked me out. I licked the confection for the first time as I stood there, waiting to be checked out. I was speechless!! “It is….” Was all I could say. “Amazing.? He added, Oui!! He smiled broadly. Some dark chocolat pellets to melt in café at home, a 75% cocoa bar and some Champaign truffles rounded my purchases. Total and complete decadence.
But is was not over! A trip to Galleries Lafayette to the largest Paris souvenir shop in Paris. Nice remembrances purchased. We had a very nice chat with the gal that checked us out. We discussed Paris rents, suburban living, the difficulty of the French language and she liked when I threw in what French I knew. As we left, she remarked that her English must not be too bad as we were able to talk to her easily. For sure! I reassured her! She smiled broadly. Bonsoir!!
Now onto the Lafayette Gourmet shop!!! WOW! Words cannot explain. Belugia caviar at $180 E. I asked for their best genuine Roquefort and was suggested Troupeau. Fantastic, soft, very blue cheese…perfect for mange du promenade – eating on the walk. The guy behind the fois gras counter said “Oui!” like it was the best idea he had heard in weeks, with a twinkle in his eye and smile upon his lips.
Dinner? Bistro Romain on Boulevard des Italiens with foie Gras, of course, as a entre (starter). The foie gras was served with a light carmel colored sauce, very coursely ground sea salt and pepper. Clearly they wanted us to put the sauce on the toast, use the salt and pepper with the foie gras. So, I obliged and could not wait to proclaim it wonderful and muffled it throught the food! Soon there was not enough sauce. Spaghetti Cabanara in butter with a lovely cheese sauce and very thinly sliced wonderous pancetta with Beaujolais Villages Georges DeBeouf wine what was drinkable when they brought it! Ah, Francais!!! Ric had Spaghetti Bolognaise, wonderful, wonderful, wonderful. Of course, piles of bread and we always ask for buerre (butter).
Mousse du chocolat for dessert. Not the puree-d to within an inch of its life, thin, weak mousse I have always had. This was dense, rich, thick, VERY chocolate-ly with pockets of barely-dissolved chocolate every here and there! Oui-la-la!! Wow. Yes, please tip your waiters. I did not but learned at the end they are NOT offended by it. Oh, dear. They seem to still be OK with us later. Next time, I will have to tip them in reverse.
A short walk back to the hotel to type this and then to pack the bike and everything. Au revoir Paris, tomorrow. Ah, a sad day. But as always, Paris has been completely gratifying.
Bonsoir!
The next stop is up north, to a bike shop to discuss renting a track bike for our next trip to Paris. This was a hole in the wall! Very tiny, with a pack of really decrepit bikes secured to each other at the curb. Not a great area of Paris, run down a bit and some buildings boarded up. Gare Magenta is there. I will look into it more later. Along the way, there was an extended bus/bike lane with a handful of us on bikes. I ended up next to a 45-ish woman. “Bonjour!” “Bonjour! A nice day for a bike ride!, she responded! Indeed. We chatted a bit and then have a nice day! Lovely little encounter! So many to be had here in Gay Paris.
The bike ship was closed until 15:37 apres-midi. 15:37?!?! Even 2 local older guys who stopped “Cyclista! If you want to know when it is open, ask next door!” I responded, “they open at 15:37.” “37??? It says so?” Heartly laughter, a bit incredulously. We all laughed. Of course, now it is where we are from, where we are going, riding our bikes! Wow and the usual excitement and interest all of Paris seems to have for us being there in full uniform and on nice bikes. I really almost expect it now but am ALWAYS delighted. “Montmartre? OH!” and a gesture to indicate the steep climb! Nothing! I respond. They look at my legs…ah, we see!” Man, they are really into cycling.
Actually, the next stop was the Art Nouveau Metro station entrance at the Abbesseyes. But first, a fight on the street, complete with cops trying to break it up. Of course, Ric wants to stay and watch and VIDEO it with his camera, held up so everyone can see what he is doing. A real videographer would have quietly turned it on and held it unobtrusively at his hip. Jim Fogerty style. So, soon, there were a half dozen guys upset he was shooting and one grabbed his bag to take the camera. We left quickly, but it was on the scraping edge of getting real ugly. We learn later from the nice gal at the Galleries Lafayette that it is not a good neighborhood.
The Metro was wonderful, the park charming, the neighborhood delightful. #2 of 3. The third one is near us but poorly documented on the Internet. We passed it on Tuesday but could not relocated it. Next time! On the way to the next stop, we were too far north. But what have we learned? Not in the right spot, something will reward you!! This reward? The location of the restaurant in the movie Amelie! I had forgotten to mark this as must-see, but there it was! Café de 2 Moulins!!! I shreaked and lept from the bike. Clearly too excited and I overexposed the photos! They knew what they were and I lept about without causing so much as a movement in the staff or patrons.
On to the famous Moulin Rouge. Wow. It is real. Seeing it in daylight removes some of the mystic, but very cool. We sat in the roundpoint, chatting and helping others take photos of themselves. The sun bathed us in a warm glow…
Ah, and now to Maison du Chocolat!!! OMG!!! Their Sorbet Chocolat is AMAZING! The exact words of the clerk who checked me out. I licked the confection for the first time as I stood there, waiting to be checked out. I was speechless!! “It is….” Was all I could say. “Amazing.? He added, Oui!! He smiled broadly. Some dark chocolat pellets to melt in café at home, a 75% cocoa bar and some Champaign truffles rounded my purchases. Total and complete decadence.
But is was not over! A trip to Galleries Lafayette to the largest Paris souvenir shop in Paris. Nice remembrances purchased. We had a very nice chat with the gal that checked us out. We discussed Paris rents, suburban living, the difficulty of the French language and she liked when I threw in what French I knew. As we left, she remarked that her English must not be too bad as we were able to talk to her easily. For sure! I reassured her! She smiled broadly. Bonsoir!!
Now onto the Lafayette Gourmet shop!!! WOW! Words cannot explain. Belugia caviar at $180 E. I asked for their best genuine Roquefort and was suggested Troupeau. Fantastic, soft, very blue cheese…perfect for mange du promenade – eating on the walk. The guy behind the fois gras counter said “Oui!” like it was the best idea he had heard in weeks, with a twinkle in his eye and smile upon his lips.
Dinner? Bistro Romain on Boulevard des Italiens with foie Gras, of course, as a entre (starter). The foie gras was served with a light carmel colored sauce, very coursely ground sea salt and pepper. Clearly they wanted us to put the sauce on the toast, use the salt and pepper with the foie gras. So, I obliged and could not wait to proclaim it wonderful and muffled it throught the food! Soon there was not enough sauce. Spaghetti Cabanara in butter with a lovely cheese sauce and very thinly sliced wonderous pancetta with Beaujolais Villages Georges DeBeouf wine what was drinkable when they brought it! Ah, Francais!!! Ric had Spaghetti Bolognaise, wonderful, wonderful, wonderful. Of course, piles of bread and we always ask for buerre (butter).
Mousse du chocolat for dessert. Not the puree-d to within an inch of its life, thin, weak mousse I have always had. This was dense, rich, thick, VERY chocolate-ly with pockets of barely-dissolved chocolate every here and there! Oui-la-la!! Wow. Yes, please tip your waiters. I did not but learned at the end they are NOT offended by it. Oh, dear. They seem to still be OK with us later. Next time, I will have to tip them in reverse.
A short walk back to the hotel to type this and then to pack the bike and everything. Au revoir Paris, tomorrow. Ah, a sad day. But as always, Paris has been completely gratifying.
Bonsoir!
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Jeudi
Another wonderful morning in Paris! We got a late start, being up late last night after our epic day in London. I went to the boulangerie for a café a porte and to the grocer for some supplies. After making my café purchase, I leaned against the building, sipping it, next to a woman eating some yogurt. Yes, a well-dressed, attractive woman eating yogurt on the street. She did it with such grace and poise, too. I love Parisians! We watched them try to sort out the delivery vehicles, cars, motor cycles all clogging the tiny 5 way intersection at our feet. There was urgency but no real swearing and anger. The sun bathed us in light and every where you turned your head, there was Paris. We met a man on the street the other day who lived just a few doors down for 55 years now. The hotel is in a business district so there are few tourists - they have left the area hotels hours ago for the sights. Au revior!
I bought our supplies and on the way back, strolled thru the 2 block long enclosed arcade right next to us with all sorts of shops and booths. The locals shop here, or the folks that work in the area – there are a lot of office workers here. Went back to the hotel and dropped off part one of the purchases. Chatted a length with the guy at the desk and went back onto the street. I was riding my bike and just smiling so hard my face hurt. I could tell I was smiling as people would look at me and smile. People walking, shopping, talking on phones, talking to friends, eating on the sidewalk, standing and munching on a snack. Wow.
I went to get lunch at the small Mediterranean shop next to the grocer. Giros, lamb chops, hamburger, fries with a wonderful spiced mayonnaise, spicy rice. Way too much food and yummy! 9 euros! Nestle Chocolat Noir for me. I just took my time, riding around, enjoying the day and activity! They park their motorcycles on the sidewalk, which sure redefines everything, as you see them drive them up ONTO the sidewalk and park them. Sure makes a bike on the sidewalk insignificant! I love Paris!! Have I said that before? I took some photos of the streets, where there are often more people walking than motorized vehicles!
Got a great shot of a well-dressed woman in a hair salon, eating her baguette. Parisians understand food so well.
We headed off for the Thursday ride at Longchamps in Bois de Bologne. It is daily, really, but we were mimicking our normal life. What do you ride past on your way to your Tuesday or Thursday ride? I rode past the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, the Trucadaro just to name a few. Oddly, we rode past them on the way back! Did I forget Place de a la Concorde? The Obelisk? The fountains? Riding through Paris is always a wonder and a joy. Overshoot your street? Get turned around? NO problem! There are always a wonder to make you feel better. An Art Deco apartment building. A Frank Lloyd Wright style fieldhouse with very long Roman bricks in a fabulous dark red, stepped on the sides with curved Deco-style railing running up the one story high steps. A massive 70s stadium! Ripe chestnuts on the pavement, crushed from the traffic, their golden orange-leaved parents above lining the boulevard. The boats floating quietly on the Seine. Wow.
Yup, we saw new things today as we overshot our street!
The large groups of riders is quite a sight! Maybe, 120 or more, total. In several groups and several speeds. The 2.2 mile course is completely enclosed and blocked from traffic. You do have to negotiate crossing by the racetrack entry, but they seem to know what is up. Again, amazing. I have seen SO many oblvious people at the local races in the States that to see people quuietly paying attention is very cool. I hooked up with a faster group but soon had to drop off. I was not warmed up and my asthma was a bit bad after the oddly poisonous air in London. I actually had to use a 2nd rescue yesterday. Anyway, the other group was slower and dropped my on the back half – not warmed up. I knew the small downslope was coming, so I tucked in and hammered hard. I could not beliver how much strength I had in my legs!! I rolled up to them and actually past them, having hit 30 mph my myself. I looked at the computer with a bit of disbelief. But soon I was antsy = they just ride one pace, round and around and around. Finally, I could not take it and sprinted off on a faster group as they past us. They finally faded and I jumped for a lone rider just ahead. No one followed. I then jumped hard for another lone rider just ahead again. I continued this, being surprised and very, very happy the strength I had! Very cool. I finished and Ric soon joined me. We had our wonderful ride thru Paris to the hotel.
But dinner first! Darkness had set, so Paris twinkled and glowed all around us. The blanket of darkness was surprisingly comforting. We rolled over to the Pompidou Center area but did not like the commercial, fast food atmosphere. We decided on Clovis Café, right at the entrance of Les Halles! They are gone but the church is still standing, massive and impressive. You really can't go wrong on a choice, where I had a 1664 beer, French, with preserved duck that was so tender, moist and delicate you could not believe it. Even the skin was completely edible! I had read about the preserved duck in my Culinaria France book I read in preparation for this trip. I could not wait to try it and it was wonderful. The pomme de terre frites were lightly seasoned and a perfect companion. Ric wanted to try the French sausage, which there was a whole section on in my book. It came circling a mound of lovely mashed potatoes flavored with French butter, of course. It was wonderful, especially enhanced by the Dijon mustard they brought in a mustard jar, of course. I was very full as the duck was leg and thigh and of course, the wonderful bread. No dessert for me but a nice Bavaria 64 while hanging out. Ric went to Haggen Daz and I rode home along Rue de Rivioli. Had to take pictures of the Metro station light up at night.
Another wonderful day in Paris!
Bonsior!
I bought our supplies and on the way back, strolled thru the 2 block long enclosed arcade right next to us with all sorts of shops and booths. The locals shop here, or the folks that work in the area – there are a lot of office workers here. Went back to the hotel and dropped off part one of the purchases. Chatted a length with the guy at the desk and went back onto the street. I was riding my bike and just smiling so hard my face hurt. I could tell I was smiling as people would look at me and smile. People walking, shopping, talking on phones, talking to friends, eating on the sidewalk, standing and munching on a snack. Wow.
I went to get lunch at the small Mediterranean shop next to the grocer. Giros, lamb chops, hamburger, fries with a wonderful spiced mayonnaise, spicy rice. Way too much food and yummy! 9 euros! Nestle Chocolat Noir for me. I just took my time, riding around, enjoying the day and activity! They park their motorcycles on the sidewalk, which sure redefines everything, as you see them drive them up ONTO the sidewalk and park them. Sure makes a bike on the sidewalk insignificant! I love Paris!! Have I said that before? I took some photos of the streets, where there are often more people walking than motorized vehicles!
Got a great shot of a well-dressed woman in a hair salon, eating her baguette. Parisians understand food so well.
We headed off for the Thursday ride at Longchamps in Bois de Bologne. It is daily, really, but we were mimicking our normal life. What do you ride past on your way to your Tuesday or Thursday ride? I rode past the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, the Trucadaro just to name a few. Oddly, we rode past them on the way back! Did I forget Place de a la Concorde? The Obelisk? The fountains? Riding through Paris is always a wonder and a joy. Overshoot your street? Get turned around? NO problem! There are always a wonder to make you feel better. An Art Deco apartment building. A Frank Lloyd Wright style fieldhouse with very long Roman bricks in a fabulous dark red, stepped on the sides with curved Deco-style railing running up the one story high steps. A massive 70s stadium! Ripe chestnuts on the pavement, crushed from the traffic, their golden orange-leaved parents above lining the boulevard. The boats floating quietly on the Seine. Wow.
Yup, we saw new things today as we overshot our street!
The large groups of riders is quite a sight! Maybe, 120 or more, total. In several groups and several speeds. The 2.2 mile course is completely enclosed and blocked from traffic. You do have to negotiate crossing by the racetrack entry, but they seem to know what is up. Again, amazing. I have seen SO many oblvious people at the local races in the States that to see people quuietly paying attention is very cool. I hooked up with a faster group but soon had to drop off. I was not warmed up and my asthma was a bit bad after the oddly poisonous air in London. I actually had to use a 2nd rescue yesterday. Anyway, the other group was slower and dropped my on the back half – not warmed up. I knew the small downslope was coming, so I tucked in and hammered hard. I could not beliver how much strength I had in my legs!! I rolled up to them and actually past them, having hit 30 mph my myself. I looked at the computer with a bit of disbelief. But soon I was antsy = they just ride one pace, round and around and around. Finally, I could not take it and sprinted off on a faster group as they past us. They finally faded and I jumped for a lone rider just ahead. No one followed. I then jumped hard for another lone rider just ahead again. I continued this, being surprised and very, very happy the strength I had! Very cool. I finished and Ric soon joined me. We had our wonderful ride thru Paris to the hotel.
But dinner first! Darkness had set, so Paris twinkled and glowed all around us. The blanket of darkness was surprisingly comforting. We rolled over to the Pompidou Center area but did not like the commercial, fast food atmosphere. We decided on Clovis Café, right at the entrance of Les Halles! They are gone but the church is still standing, massive and impressive. You really can't go wrong on a choice, where I had a 1664 beer, French, with preserved duck that was so tender, moist and delicate you could not believe it. Even the skin was completely edible! I had read about the preserved duck in my Culinaria France book I read in preparation for this trip. I could not wait to try it and it was wonderful. The pomme de terre frites were lightly seasoned and a perfect companion. Ric wanted to try the French sausage, which there was a whole section on in my book. It came circling a mound of lovely mashed potatoes flavored with French butter, of course. It was wonderful, especially enhanced by the Dijon mustard they brought in a mustard jar, of course. I was very full as the duck was leg and thigh and of course, the wonderful bread. No dessert for me but a nice Bavaria 64 while hanging out. Ric went to Haggen Daz and I rode home along Rue de Rivioli. Had to take pictures of the Metro station light up at night.
Another wonderful day in Paris!
Bonsior!
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Mercredi becomes Wednesday!
An epic day today! Arose early and rode to Gare du Nord train station to take the high-speed train to London for the day! We finally located where to drop off our bikes and they were expecting us, with receipts and all the things necessary to hand over our good bikes to them. We were told at the ticket counter to head upstairs about 6 minutes before the train leaves. So we relaxed, bought some food and sat at the main level. We moved upstairs to find passport checking, metal detection and luggage scanning machines and all the personnel!!!! We did not make it through on time and missed our train. You can imagine all the things we said!! NONONE told up it was a BORDER CROSSING!!!!!
So we hung out and chatted with the ticket monitor about Le Tour de France. He sure knew his stuff, including a ton about all the American cyclists that did well over the many years! He especially mentioned the 7-11 team, the precursor to US Postal Service, etc.
So, we finally boarded and passed through endless miles of French farming countryside. It is the same countryside I saw last year from Bazel – if it were not for the occasional French village and the rolling hills, it would be freaking Illinois, Iowa or any corn farming state in the US! Well, France IS the breadbasket of Europe!!
We arrived at St. Pancras station north of the main part of London right on time. The ride through the Channel Tunnel was sure interesting. So was the gal in the food car using “Chunnel” and she works on it and is French. So there!
We quickly secured out bikes and stepped onto the London streets! Struck immediately by the old fashioned looking cabs, all the same, all in a row. Wow. Was it 1920?? Cool!!
First stop, Kessington Palace in Hyde Park. The London traffic was pretty cool, actually, and riding on the other side of the street really only caused a few problems – and a rather significant near-miss. Hyde Park was very nice – again it is amazing it is not trampled to death from the centuries of use! The Serpentine was very calm and nice to ride along. We meanered over toward the Palace and discovered the Albert Memorial, that I swear I have never hear of; quite ornate and gilded! Who says the British are subdued???! Across from Royal Albert Hall – wow, like seeing Mecca for the music world. Wow.
A large area of NO CYCLES so we walked our bikes across the field, trying to find a washroom. 1 per every 5,000 people I was to be told later today! Yikes.
We found the Palace and I went inside – looks just like so many Colonial buildings here, but we were the Colonies, and this was the ORIGINAL! Pretty cool, actually. Overall, quite understated from the outside. Kinda looks like so many buildings here in the US. Obviously, we understand the influence. Again, seeing it was cool and more than a bit different. It is hard to explain what it feels like to see something that looks completely familiar but pre-dates everything you know!
Onward we traveled, moving easily through the traffic. Being treated like you have the right to be in traffic is so different, and the Brits are equally happy with us there. That look-right thing, tho…that aint the whole story. You STILL have to look left, as you cross the street!
Ric turned quickly to stop and do the oft-done activity of looking at a map. The distances are shorter than they appear but you think you have traveled farther. Weird. As we turned, I saw a very familiar, ornate building to the extreme right. HARRODS!! We circled around and were delayed by seeing the Colombian Embasy right across the street from Harrods! Pictures were made and it was cool!
We circled Harrods and entered by the Men’s store. Wow. I don’t know what people mean but it did not seem like a shadow of its former self! Classy, elegant, BUSY. Armani, D&G, the works! And a doorman dressed in an all green, traditional olde-English-style suit. Elusive, tho. We would not get a picture of him.
On to Buckingham Palace. Yes, the Queen was home! Another ornate, gilded gate – several of them, actually! The Palace guard started his little loosen-up march back and forth. Very cool. A gilded statue in the plaza in front of the Palace. I gotta say this: the Palace itself looked like a large, downtown Chicago bank building. I know it is wonderful inside and it is massive and the center of government. But it is quietly British.
Riding along, I see it – WOW it is HUGE. Big Ben REALLY is BIG!!! And gilded! What the heck?? Why has no one ever mentioned this? Is it recent??? After days in Paris, I was glad to see it dressed up! Parliament is the BIGGEST Gothic building I have EVER seen! I just kept saying it! I counted over 85 Gothic spires, and I was not being careful, missing some!! Oh……my……God!!! The Treasury, 10 Downing Street, The Abbey, House of Lords, the recently-abandonded Scotland Yard buildings, the guy playing bagpipes on the bridge, the London Eye, oh, my god. They are all REAL! It is a bit overwhelming!!! I kept saying, they are all really real! Not just photos, or movies or pictures. Wow. Real buildings running a real country. Really amazing. I was more than a bit distracted and that is how the close call occurred. I have very quick reflexed and good bike handling skills, which I know amazed and please the taxi. Oh, well.
Near the Treasury, traffic was a mess and people, cars, really high, red busses and some construction caused Ric and I to get separated. I thought I saw him in the distance, but by the time I hit Trafalgar Square, I knew I was lost. Oh, geeze!! This is NOT good!! We were on our way to The Tower Bridge, so I decided to continue, thinking Ric would do the same. I eventually traveled quite some distance and got quite turned around and decided to head back to Big Ben, the last place we were together. I did circumvent Trafalgar Square and spent time looking around, Nelson’s colomn included! On my way back to Big Ben – did I mention it is REALLY BIG? - on Victoria Embankment, I saw him going the other way! I turned and chased him on the sidewalk, like a madman. We finally hooked up, losing only about 20 minutes. It is amazing how much distance a fit cyclist can cover even in major cities like London in 20 minutes.
As we approached Tower Bridge, the traffic was stopped! The bridge was going up!! We rolled right up to the gate, to a small group of other cyclists. I was verbally very excited the bridge was going up on my FIRST visit! Other cyclists got into it and eventually we had quite a conversation going!! They were all pretty amazed we had come in by train from Paris and had ridden all over London all afternoon!
We headed to Porter’s for traditional lamb and apricot meat pie for me and wild boar sausage for Ric. Both were very good and the boar was amazingly sweet!
Next stop? Covent Garden for shopping, souvenir, more interaction with the locals – too much fun! Especially when they are talking like our rock stars but that is their life!! Oh, yeah, London has some massive 70s buildings. Traditional London here and there, but not as much as you would expect. A lot of kinda generic stuff everywhere. Not new, just generic.
Meet some folks from Minneapolis! Chatted with them before heading back to St. Pancras, the train and Paris. What an amazing day!!! Arriving in Paris felt exactly like coming home. Ric said it out loud about the same time I felt it. We loved that.
So we hung out and chatted with the ticket monitor about Le Tour de France. He sure knew his stuff, including a ton about all the American cyclists that did well over the many years! He especially mentioned the 7-11 team, the precursor to US Postal Service, etc.
So, we finally boarded and passed through endless miles of French farming countryside. It is the same countryside I saw last year from Bazel – if it were not for the occasional French village and the rolling hills, it would be freaking Illinois, Iowa or any corn farming state in the US! Well, France IS the breadbasket of Europe!!
We arrived at St. Pancras station north of the main part of London right on time. The ride through the Channel Tunnel was sure interesting. So was the gal in the food car using “Chunnel” and she works on it and is French. So there!
We quickly secured out bikes and stepped onto the London streets! Struck immediately by the old fashioned looking cabs, all the same, all in a row. Wow. Was it 1920?? Cool!!
First stop, Kessington Palace in Hyde Park. The London traffic was pretty cool, actually, and riding on the other side of the street really only caused a few problems – and a rather significant near-miss. Hyde Park was very nice – again it is amazing it is not trampled to death from the centuries of use! The Serpentine was very calm and nice to ride along. We meanered over toward the Palace and discovered the Albert Memorial, that I swear I have never hear of; quite ornate and gilded! Who says the British are subdued???! Across from Royal Albert Hall – wow, like seeing Mecca for the music world. Wow.
A large area of NO CYCLES so we walked our bikes across the field, trying to find a washroom. 1 per every 5,000 people I was to be told later today! Yikes.
We found the Palace and I went inside – looks just like so many Colonial buildings here, but we were the Colonies, and this was the ORIGINAL! Pretty cool, actually. Overall, quite understated from the outside. Kinda looks like so many buildings here in the US. Obviously, we understand the influence. Again, seeing it was cool and more than a bit different. It is hard to explain what it feels like to see something that looks completely familiar but pre-dates everything you know!
Onward we traveled, moving easily through the traffic. Being treated like you have the right to be in traffic is so different, and the Brits are equally happy with us there. That look-right thing, tho…that aint the whole story. You STILL have to look left, as you cross the street!
Ric turned quickly to stop and do the oft-done activity of looking at a map. The distances are shorter than they appear but you think you have traveled farther. Weird. As we turned, I saw a very familiar, ornate building to the extreme right. HARRODS!! We circled around and were delayed by seeing the Colombian Embasy right across the street from Harrods! Pictures were made and it was cool!
We circled Harrods and entered by the Men’s store. Wow. I don’t know what people mean but it did not seem like a shadow of its former self! Classy, elegant, BUSY. Armani, D&G, the works! And a doorman dressed in an all green, traditional olde-English-style suit. Elusive, tho. We would not get a picture of him.
On to Buckingham Palace. Yes, the Queen was home! Another ornate, gilded gate – several of them, actually! The Palace guard started his little loosen-up march back and forth. Very cool. A gilded statue in the plaza in front of the Palace. I gotta say this: the Palace itself looked like a large, downtown Chicago bank building. I know it is wonderful inside and it is massive and the center of government. But it is quietly British.
Riding along, I see it – WOW it is HUGE. Big Ben REALLY is BIG!!! And gilded! What the heck?? Why has no one ever mentioned this? Is it recent??? After days in Paris, I was glad to see it dressed up! Parliament is the BIGGEST Gothic building I have EVER seen! I just kept saying it! I counted over 85 Gothic spires, and I was not being careful, missing some!! Oh……my……God!!! The Treasury, 10 Downing Street, The Abbey, House of Lords, the recently-abandonded Scotland Yard buildings, the guy playing bagpipes on the bridge, the London Eye, oh, my god. They are all REAL! It is a bit overwhelming!!! I kept saying, they are all really real! Not just photos, or movies or pictures. Wow. Real buildings running a real country. Really amazing. I was more than a bit distracted and that is how the close call occurred. I have very quick reflexed and good bike handling skills, which I know amazed and please the taxi. Oh, well.
Near the Treasury, traffic was a mess and people, cars, really high, red busses and some construction caused Ric and I to get separated. I thought I saw him in the distance, but by the time I hit Trafalgar Square, I knew I was lost. Oh, geeze!! This is NOT good!! We were on our way to The Tower Bridge, so I decided to continue, thinking Ric would do the same. I eventually traveled quite some distance and got quite turned around and decided to head back to Big Ben, the last place we were together. I did circumvent Trafalgar Square and spent time looking around, Nelson’s colomn included! On my way back to Big Ben – did I mention it is REALLY BIG? - on Victoria Embankment, I saw him going the other way! I turned and chased him on the sidewalk, like a madman. We finally hooked up, losing only about 20 minutes. It is amazing how much distance a fit cyclist can cover even in major cities like London in 20 minutes.
As we approached Tower Bridge, the traffic was stopped! The bridge was going up!! We rolled right up to the gate, to a small group of other cyclists. I was verbally very excited the bridge was going up on my FIRST visit! Other cyclists got into it and eventually we had quite a conversation going!! They were all pretty amazed we had come in by train from Paris and had ridden all over London all afternoon!
We headed to Porter’s for traditional lamb and apricot meat pie for me and wild boar sausage for Ric. Both were very good and the boar was amazingly sweet!
Next stop? Covent Garden for shopping, souvenir, more interaction with the locals – too much fun! Especially when they are talking like our rock stars but that is their life!! Oh, yeah, London has some massive 70s buildings. Traditional London here and there, but not as much as you would expect. A lot of kinda generic stuff everywhere. Not new, just generic.
Meet some folks from Minneapolis! Chatted with them before heading back to St. Pancras, the train and Paris. What an amazing day!!! Arriving in Paris felt exactly like coming home. Ric said it out loud about the same time I felt it. We loved that.
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Food and resturants
I wanted to make anther addition about dinner last night. When I asked if the spagetti was enough for a hungry guy who had just ridden all day, he said he thought so. I asked about the crepe complete, and he made a bit of a face and shook his head. "The spagetti is better." When Ric ordered the cheeses and meats plate, he said "Very good!" It was! Four or five each cheeses and meats. Very moldy blue cheese! When I complimented at the end, he said "Of course, it is my job!" They talk with a lot of ! in their words and sentences. I really hear pride and truth in that statement of his. They take food quite seriously and enjoy serving you yummy food that you like.
Mardi (Tuesday)
Bonjour!
Today we rode up Montmontre, to see Sacre Coeur and where all the famous artists lived and worked. It was very commercial and some of the reverence I expected to feel was not there. The Artist’s Park was nice but from what I could tell, it was mostly filled with a restaurant with artists around the perimeter. The view of Paris from that high was amazing, with the George Pompidou center the only visible landmark.
I ordered a sandwich and Expresso, the outside waiter asked me to follow him. I did, to the door of the restaurant, and stopped. He walked up the stairs and disappeared into the resturant. I stood at the bottom of the short flight of stairs. He reappeared and motioned me to follow. Into the restaurant, with my bike? “Oui.” So, I went into the restaurant with my bike and he motioned for me to put it against the wall, opposite the bar. They sure do think about bikes different over here! Standing there in the brassarie, in my cycling gear, created the usual stir. “Tour de France” and “competition velo” I could hear clearly, from the waiters and kitchen staff that suddenly came from nowhere! One older waiter walked up behind me and reached down and poked my calf with his index finger. He indicated he was impressed. I said "One second" and this time I flexed it fully. He poked it again and he made an even more impressed reaction, and laughed. Another waiter walked up to my bike and picked it up. “Tres bon!, very light” he said. "Oui", as I put up one finger to say “wait” and removed the 2 full water bottles. He lifted it again and it eyes got wider. One waiter said a long sentence to me I got none of and another waiter smiled and said “Oui!” I got my baguette and espresso and went outside, juggling things just a bit. I went to a bench and sat and ate in the shade. Lovely. Ric appeared shortly after his hunt for a route to the top.
Ric and I stood in the milling crowds by the shops, one English-looking young woman walked right up to us, to our side and took a picture of us, an artistic angle, I could tell from the angle. Another young man whipped his camera around as Ric rode up the hill past him. I heard the click of the shutter as I passed into view. Everywhere, people looked at us. I tell you, being a cyclist in Europe is certainly different than in America!
We rode back down, and stopped a the location where St. Denis preached in 273 AD!! Wow. Now a park with a Deco structure. We continued our decent and soon the island of peace and tranquility above Paris was replaced with traffic, people, activity everywhere. We rounded Paris to the west and south and suddenly, looming in the distance in great magnificence was the Arc de Triomph! I swear Napoleon himself was standing there. I could really feel it.
We criss-crossed the Bois de Bolonge again, this time searching for the circuit they ride around daily. It is about 2 miles around the racecourse, closed to traffic completely! Ric jumped in with the fast group and I shot some video and then did laps myself. Much fun! Hearing all that French in the peleton sure makes you feel like you are, well, in France!!
We stopped at Le Carouse right on the Rue de Rivoli, right at the Louvre, directly, on the way home. The large glass of French beer disappeared very quickly! Spagetti Bolognase was completely excellent; the sauce VERY much like my own families 80+ year old recipe, right down to the carrots and the NUTMEG! I love the French even more! Ric had veal medallions with the required fantastic sauce. Raspberries on a bed of ice cream – delicately flavored with pistachio – on a light, crunchy tart shell, ended the meal! A short ride back and the day concludes!
Ric is now working to set up his replacement on-board camera he bought this morning from a stock of 15 on hand!!!! You can only mail order it in the US. You can buy ANYTHING in Paris! So, he will be able to document London by bike tomorrow!
London! Tomorrow! WOW!
Bonsoir!
Today we rode up Montmontre, to see Sacre Coeur and where all the famous artists lived and worked. It was very commercial and some of the reverence I expected to feel was not there. The Artist’s Park was nice but from what I could tell, it was mostly filled with a restaurant with artists around the perimeter. The view of Paris from that high was amazing, with the George Pompidou center the only visible landmark.
I ordered a sandwich and Expresso, the outside waiter asked me to follow him. I did, to the door of the restaurant, and stopped. He walked up the stairs and disappeared into the resturant. I stood at the bottom of the short flight of stairs. He reappeared and motioned me to follow. Into the restaurant, with my bike? “Oui.” So, I went into the restaurant with my bike and he motioned for me to put it against the wall, opposite the bar. They sure do think about bikes different over here! Standing there in the brassarie, in my cycling gear, created the usual stir. “Tour de France” and “competition velo” I could hear clearly, from the waiters and kitchen staff that suddenly came from nowhere! One older waiter walked up behind me and reached down and poked my calf with his index finger. He indicated he was impressed. I said "One second" and this time I flexed it fully. He poked it again and he made an even more impressed reaction, and laughed. Another waiter walked up to my bike and picked it up. “Tres bon!, very light” he said. "Oui", as I put up one finger to say “wait” and removed the 2 full water bottles. He lifted it again and it eyes got wider. One waiter said a long sentence to me I got none of and another waiter smiled and said “Oui!” I got my baguette and espresso and went outside, juggling things just a bit. I went to a bench and sat and ate in the shade. Lovely. Ric appeared shortly after his hunt for a route to the top.
Ric and I stood in the milling crowds by the shops, one English-looking young woman walked right up to us, to our side and took a picture of us, an artistic angle, I could tell from the angle. Another young man whipped his camera around as Ric rode up the hill past him. I heard the click of the shutter as I passed into view. Everywhere, people looked at us. I tell you, being a cyclist in Europe is certainly different than in America!
We rode back down, and stopped a the location where St. Denis preached in 273 AD!! Wow. Now a park with a Deco structure. We continued our decent and soon the island of peace and tranquility above Paris was replaced with traffic, people, activity everywhere. We rounded Paris to the west and south and suddenly, looming in the distance in great magnificence was the Arc de Triomph! I swear Napoleon himself was standing there. I could really feel it.
We criss-crossed the Bois de Bolonge again, this time searching for the circuit they ride around daily. It is about 2 miles around the racecourse, closed to traffic completely! Ric jumped in with the fast group and I shot some video and then did laps myself. Much fun! Hearing all that French in the peleton sure makes you feel like you are, well, in France!!
We stopped at Le Carouse right on the Rue de Rivoli, right at the Louvre, directly, on the way home. The large glass of French beer disappeared very quickly! Spagetti Bolognase was completely excellent; the sauce VERY much like my own families 80+ year old recipe, right down to the carrots and the NUTMEG! I love the French even more! Ric had veal medallions with the required fantastic sauce. Raspberries on a bed of ice cream – delicately flavored with pistachio – on a light, crunchy tart shell, ended the meal! A short ride back and the day concludes!
Ric is now working to set up his replacement on-board camera he bought this morning from a stock of 15 on hand!!!! You can only mail order it in the US. You can buy ANYTHING in Paris! So, he will be able to document London by bike tomorrow!
London! Tomorrow! WOW!
Bonsoir!
Lundi - Monday
Monday was a beautiful day in Paris! We started on a nice ride up the Rue de Rivoli, to the Champs Elysees, around the Arc de Triomphe onto the Avenue of the Grand Army out to the edge of Paris by Bois de Bolongne to meet up with a contact, Andrew, who is a US citizen working for Reuters in the La Defense area. A nice lunch and talking about cycling and riding in Paris and outlying areas. Ric's on-bike video camera, on its maiden voyage, popped off the mounting from the pounding on the pave, crashed to the ground, got rolled over and died. Man! That was SO unfortunate. Not a single frame of our rides through Paris to be documents!!
Off to our first stop, the Art Nouveau Metro station! It stands quietly in a nice area, looking just spectacular! One of only two of the larger original of these entrances I was able to locate. Next we rolled down the east side of the Bois and we saw a massive 70s building. Stopping, I saw a small park to Claude Debussy, including a wonderful Art Deco monument! Small wonders everywhere you turn! Proceeding into the picturesque neighborhood west of the Bois, heading to Rue Mallot-Stevens – a small street with fantastic Art Deco apartmenet building, designed by Mallot-Stevens. To see them in person, not pictures in a book was exhilarating!
Ric was always just ahead, planning the next stop from my “list of wishes”. Square du Docteur Blanche, a private way that lead to Le Coubusier’s famous home, now the Foundation headquarters. Totally stripped of all ornamentation! Clean, straightforward. A startling sight put in perspective of the time it was designed.
What is so cool was being busy street, turning onto a small street and the quieteness is startling! You would never expect this in a city.
Next the amazing Castel Beranger, not even a mile away. Pre-dating the Corbusier house, this exuberant 1898 Art Nouveau building was amazing to see. However, I had NO clue the lobby was over the top! Copper ceiling, 3 dimensional walls, Nouveau art glass, wow!!! There was a workman in the lobby, carefully painting small areas in restoration. Then, I turned around and was stunned by the wonderful Art Deco building across the street!! A conservatory named for Francis Poulanc, one of my FAVORITE composers! Wow. Amazing! Everywhere you turn.....
Palais de Chaillot was next. The Art Deco pavilion opposite the Tour Eiffel. The fountains were all on, people hanging out everywhere and walking in the wading pool. There are so many placed to hang out in Paris it is amazing. There were some kids doing amazing and scary rollerblading stunts.
A wonderful ride through charming neighborhoods, stopping at the oldest church I’ve ever been in. 1630? It was hard to tell the age from the many plaques.
Past The Conciergie where Marie Antionette and others were imprisoned. Haggen-Daz near Notre Dame, the bells ringing over the crowds and plaza. Quite heavenly! The masses of tourists were not. Pushing and rushing, to get to the next thing. Ack!
We turned south, heading to see the first metal casting of the Statue of Liberty, nestled in Jardin de Luxembourg. When you see the park and know it is old and visited by Parisians for decades and decades, it is really amazing it is not trampled to death. We sat under the soaring linden tree near the statue and talked of all sights we had seen and other things.
We headed back, looking for Le Maison du Chocolat. The first location was in the lower level of the Louvre. We rode through the inner courtyard. Wow. The other Maison de Chocolat was near Palais Garnier and after the usual up-this-street-down-that-street, with the streets changing names frequently, just blocks later, a new name, making navigation very interesting! That Maison was FERME!! Closed. LOL.
Back to the now large room at the top of the hotel – classic French beamed ceiling, toile wallpaper, 2 sets of French windows that open to Paris and fresh air! So wonderful!
A dinner at Salon de The Capucine Cafe near the closed Le Maison de Chocolat on Rue Madeline proved just lovely, with a very nice African waitress who loved helping me with my French. The maitre’d gave me the French menu as I have greeting them and all in French. He smiled broadly and had a twinkle in his eyes as he did so. After enjoying VERY good foi gras, veal in an amazing sauce, duck you could not believe, crème boule and a medium size bottle of wine of a lovely white, French of course, we retired for the day! Wow. So many wonders and marvels!!
Off to our first stop, the Art Nouveau Metro station! It stands quietly in a nice area, looking just spectacular! One of only two of the larger original of these entrances I was able to locate. Next we rolled down the east side of the Bois and we saw a massive 70s building. Stopping, I saw a small park to Claude Debussy, including a wonderful Art Deco monument! Small wonders everywhere you turn! Proceeding into the picturesque neighborhood west of the Bois, heading to Rue Mallot-Stevens – a small street with fantastic Art Deco apartmenet building, designed by Mallot-Stevens. To see them in person, not pictures in a book was exhilarating!
Ric was always just ahead, planning the next stop from my “list of wishes”. Square du Docteur Blanche, a private way that lead to Le Coubusier’s famous home, now the Foundation headquarters. Totally stripped of all ornamentation! Clean, straightforward. A startling sight put in perspective of the time it was designed.
What is so cool was being busy street, turning onto a small street and the quieteness is startling! You would never expect this in a city.
Next the amazing Castel Beranger, not even a mile away. Pre-dating the Corbusier house, this exuberant 1898 Art Nouveau building was amazing to see. However, I had NO clue the lobby was over the top! Copper ceiling, 3 dimensional walls, Nouveau art glass, wow!!! There was a workman in the lobby, carefully painting small areas in restoration. Then, I turned around and was stunned by the wonderful Art Deco building across the street!! A conservatory named for Francis Poulanc, one of my FAVORITE composers! Wow. Amazing! Everywhere you turn.....
Palais de Chaillot was next. The Art Deco pavilion opposite the Tour Eiffel. The fountains were all on, people hanging out everywhere and walking in the wading pool. There are so many placed to hang out in Paris it is amazing. There were some kids doing amazing and scary rollerblading stunts.
A wonderful ride through charming neighborhoods, stopping at the oldest church I’ve ever been in. 1630? It was hard to tell the age from the many plaques.
Past The Conciergie where Marie Antionette and others were imprisoned. Haggen-Daz near Notre Dame, the bells ringing over the crowds and plaza. Quite heavenly! The masses of tourists were not. Pushing and rushing, to get to the next thing. Ack!
We turned south, heading to see the first metal casting of the Statue of Liberty, nestled in Jardin de Luxembourg. When you see the park and know it is old and visited by Parisians for decades and decades, it is really amazing it is not trampled to death. We sat under the soaring linden tree near the statue and talked of all sights we had seen and other things.
We headed back, looking for Le Maison du Chocolat. The first location was in the lower level of the Louvre. We rode through the inner courtyard. Wow. The other Maison de Chocolat was near Palais Garnier and after the usual up-this-street-down-that-street, with the streets changing names frequently, just blocks later, a new name, making navigation very interesting! That Maison was FERME!! Closed. LOL.
Back to the now large room at the top of the hotel – classic French beamed ceiling, toile wallpaper, 2 sets of French windows that open to Paris and fresh air! So wonderful!
A dinner at Salon de The Capucine Cafe near the closed Le Maison de Chocolat on Rue Madeline proved just lovely, with a very nice African waitress who loved helping me with my French. The maitre’d gave me the French menu as I have greeting them and all in French. He smiled broadly and had a twinkle in his eyes as he did so. After enjoying VERY good foi gras, veal in an amazing sauce, duck you could not believe, crème boule and a medium size bottle of wine of a lovely white, French of course, we retired for the day! Wow. So many wonders and marvels!!
Monday, September 7, 2009
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Day 2 - Relaxation Paris at night
Our slow start continued for me. Ric went out on a hunt to locate the home of a contact here in Paris for group rides. About 15km to the northwest. I sent to the store to select some items for snacks and breakfast, altho I will make a trip to the boulangerie 2 short blocks away for Expresso and fresh baguette in the morning. Then I made my visit to the Palias Garnier Opera House – the gilded statues gleaming in the late afternoon sun! I discovered that the architect of this Neo Classic masterpiece Charles Garnier is buried in a marble tomb to the west side of the building. What a tribute! Walked all around, sampling a bit of food at a brasserie and wound my way down to Jardin de Tuilleries. I sat on the wall and watched the sun set with the Tour Eiffel lighted and glowing against the red sky. Just wonderful. At 9:00, the Tour sparkles from bottom to tip!! Click here to see video. So now, some 3 hours after Ric left, I decided to check back at the hotel, so I started walking. About half way back, on Rue de Pyramides I heard a light, metallic sound coming up behind me, clearly from a bicycle. I could tell it was not an ordinary bike, as it was approaching fast! I turned to the right and voila! there was Ric! What were the odds of that!?!? “Hey, Ric!” I called. He stopped sharply, completely surprised to hear THAT on a Paris street! We got caught up and stopped at Le Royal Opera brasserie for dinner. Foi gras, naturale chicken, lamb chops, piles of green beans julienne, salad, and a vin pays that is better that almost every white wine I have had in the U.S. with ice cream and sorbet citron vert with bits of citron vert rind for flavor as dessert! The perfect end for a Paris day.
Chateau de Vincennes
Here is where I learned the correct way to say "opera" and "Citroën" The vintage Citroën was beautiful! So was the bride, actually.
Wonderous sights at every turn!
Suddenly, you come upon things! Here Ric is doing what we do alot - referencing a map!
Dimanche matin (Sunday morning)
Bonjour! Aujourd'hui, I began with hot chocolate made especially for me by our friend Antione at the hotel, cheese, a real croissant with wonderful butter, orange juice, strawberry preserves you put on with a spoon it is so good. The entire bottle of red wine I drank at dinner last night is hardly even noticeable this morning – no morning effects at all! We are having a lazy start on this clear, sunny completely blue sky Paris day. I walked to the Boulevard des Italiens for my baguette and Espresso take-away. Fromage et jambon, of course! I order them just like a native and get such a rush from it! Past the famous Art Nouvea Metro station I finally photographed!! I walk past it so many times, it becomes a part of my life and I forget I won’t see it when I get back home. It was a quiet day on the street with many shops and brasseries closed. Even so, there are always people walking around. Parisians sure do love their city and love to be in it. I hear people on the street, in restaurants, on TV saying “d’accord” so many times (okay or agree)! I understand so much more French than the last trip that is makes it even nicer. It is difficult to drag thing up out of my brain, tho. I could not remember the word for “rent” when Ric wanted to rent a track bike as they would not hear of us riding our road bikes on the track. The guy at the track was saying “buy” which I caught, so I came up with “one day, not buy”. That got it across but the answer was negative. I must come across OK as when the second part of our interaction started, the guy we first talked to said, in French, "He speaks French!" all excited and pointed to me, smiling warmly. "A little", I responded in French. Everyone really tries hard to bridge the barrier every where we go. So gratious of them! Anyway, it was a lovely walk this morning and smashing my baguette flat in Parisian style, eating it while I walked, sipping on my espresso, back to the hotel was just wonderful.
Yesterday
The park where the velodrome is located seems big and crossed by every kind of path, trail, route, road. Classic French layout. The maps are merely references, seeming not meant to do anything buy guide you toward your own discoveries. We crossed the park several times not realizing how small it really is. Of course, we found what I believe is the only 1970s structure that I have seen that I feel really works - the racecourse. I had never seen 70s horse stables!
But how do you record what reaches into your soul and touches you in ways you did not know were possible? I was thrilled to see blocks-long rements of a farmer's market, being cleaned up. How can you explain that? I'm Dale, I guess, and that is what it is. Imagine how excited I would be to see the actual market set up? hehehe. The guard at the Chateau Vincennes came out as I stood, in my cycling clothes, looking into the courtyard from the gate. "Tour de France! Champes Elysees!" he exclaimed, with a huge smile on his face. He opened the gate for us rather then make us walk thru the narrow entrance. So many small courtesies we receive! Christopher, our waiter, saying, "No, that is just white cheese and red fruits! Here, select this!"
But how do you record what reaches into your soul and touches you in ways you did not know were possible? I was thrilled to see blocks-long rements of a farmer's market, being cleaned up. How can you explain that? I'm Dale, I guess, and that is what it is. Imagine how excited I would be to see the actual market set up? hehehe. The guard at the Chateau Vincennes came out as I stood, in my cycling clothes, looking into the courtyard from the gate. "Tour de France! Champes Elysees!" he exclaimed, with a huge smile on his face. He opened the gate for us rather then make us walk thru the narrow entrance. So many small courtesies we receive! Christopher, our waiter, saying, "No, that is just white cheese and red fruits! Here, select this!"
Saturday, September 5, 2009
Georges Pompidou Centre
Yes, they REALLY built this!! I saw a coffetable book on this building in 1979 when I first started at Carson Pirie Scott. I decided then and there I must see Paris. Today, I finally stood in front of it. I was amazed! It is real and quite stands out from the Second Empire neighborhood it sits in! All the "insides", the mechanical systems, are on the outside, color coded. High Tech, the style is. And this is the height of it! Blue for air conditioning components; orange: heating: green: good water. The plaza was full of people for a Saturday night. All the resturants around it the people sat at the tables, facing the plaza. There was a street performer on a tight rope and a guy in metallic paint standing perfectly still until some came near.
Incredible!
Yes, that is the truth! Paris is incredble! We rode to Vincennes, an eastern suburb of Paris to see the Jacques Anquitil Velodrome. The motocyclist outside the bike shop gave us one set of directions; the guys in the bike shop another set. Turns out the bike shop guys seemed to want us to visit Chateau du Vincennes, a fortress with buildings from the Middle Ages, thru the 1880s!! What a sight! It is the oldest structure I have ever seen. There was what would have been a moat, a real drawbrige and a fantastic Gothic church! This was gothic from when God himself first said "Build me a church in the Gothic style, to praise me!" Wow. The keep from the 13th century fortress was amazing. The hunt for the Velodrome ended in the longest and most convoluted hunt for any structure ever in the history of "Ric and Dale hunts for stuff"!! The ride back happened in rush hour, and we stopped by the Georges Pompidou Cultural Center for me to see the first building that really made me say "I have to visit Paris!"
The day ended in an fantastic dinner orchestrated by Christoff, our waiter at Mellifere Restaurant, 4 doors from the hotel. He was a bit frustrated to have to speak English, but we know that Europeans require a much more advanced knowledge of a language to feel comfortable speaking it. He suffered through telling us some of the menu items on the tall board they bring to the table and place against the wall but when we got to the 3 desserts at the bottom of the specials list, I said, "I have this" and went thru them in English. I turned back to him, he put his heals together, his hand to his forhead and made a little saulte and said "You have my respect!" with a smile. Wow. We have proved ourselves, with very little effort. He totally loosend up and it got real fun!! At one point, he went back into the resturant to get paper and pen to write down an answer to one of Ric's inquiries, kneeling on one knee at the table to write! Another time, he firmly hit me on the shoulder as he walked off.
When we ordered, I asked if the pasta had a meat sauce. Christopher said, "if you want beef, get this! Forget the spagehetti.' and made a very dismissing gesture toward the other side of the menu. Too wonderful!
We went on to have one of the best dinners out in my life. The wine! The beef was incredible! The potatoes! The veal Ric had! The pommes caramel with ice cream Ric had and the lightly fried bread with ice cream and caramel I had topped it perfectly. To see Christopoher open the sparkling water and wine was a moment of high opera in itself! He opened the sparking water with great fanfare, tossing cap behind him into the street in a flash! All this just 4 doors from the hotel. Paris is just amazing...
The day ended in an fantastic dinner orchestrated by Christoff, our waiter at Mellifere Restaurant, 4 doors from the hotel. He was a bit frustrated to have to speak English, but we know that Europeans require a much more advanced knowledge of a language to feel comfortable speaking it. He suffered through telling us some of the menu items on the tall board they bring to the table and place against the wall but when we got to the 3 desserts at the bottom of the specials list, I said, "I have this" and went thru them in English. I turned back to him, he put his heals together, his hand to his forhead and made a little saulte and said "You have my respect!" with a smile. Wow. We have proved ourselves, with very little effort. He totally loosend up and it got real fun!! At one point, he went back into the resturant to get paper and pen to write down an answer to one of Ric's inquiries, kneeling on one knee at the table to write! Another time, he firmly hit me on the shoulder as he walked off.
When we ordered, I asked if the pasta had a meat sauce. Christopher said, "if you want beef, get this! Forget the spagehetti.' and made a very dismissing gesture toward the other side of the menu. Too wonderful!
We went on to have one of the best dinners out in my life. The wine! The beef was incredible! The potatoes! The veal Ric had! The pommes caramel with ice cream Ric had and the lightly fried bread with ice cream and caramel I had topped it perfectly. To see Christopoher open the sparkling water and wine was a moment of high opera in itself! He opened the sparking water with great fanfare, tossing cap behind him into the street in a flash! All this just 4 doors from the hotel. Paris is just amazing...
Arrivee!
We are here!!! Fantastic already. More later - on to a bike ride right away, after hot chocolate and baquette!! Oh, yeah, "we" is Ricardo Otero and myself. Our return trip to Paris. We were just here in October of 2008. It is incredible to be returning so soon!
Thursday, September 3, 2009
OMGosh!
Just typing that first blog has really got me going! I can hardly focus on my work. Why am I blogging when I am at work, anyway? Cause Paris takes over my brain when it pleases!! I am totally fine with that!
Un jour!
One day to go! The time it just DRAGGING! I really feel more excited to be returning to Paris than I was to go the first time. That is pretty amazing to me. But really, it shouldn't be. I now know exactly what is it like and how incredible every day is. Riding a bike on the streets of Paris, going through the city, it is right on you! All the activity; all the sights. It is really difficult to keep pedaling forward 'cause I am looking around all the time! Plus it is very cool to be there with someone who views the bike and uses it in the same way! We will be bringing our bikes with us and riding them around Paris as our main transportation. We will also be bringing them on the Eurostar high speed train to London to ride around London and have a great time on the bike. We have such access and interaction with the world while on a bike, as opposed to a Metro or bus or car or even walking. And the French really seem to interact with us differently, being cyclistes!
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