Vendredi

A morning of errands…my most favorite thing to do. First another browse through the Gallery. A book on the History of Le Tour de France, a photographic history of Paris caught my eye. Then a stop at the grocer, but Maison du Sandwich for a tuna baguette and a raspberry tarte. Then to the boulangerie for café au porte. Emmthaler cheese, President butter, the tarte, café, and half the tuna baguette for breakfast. Our first stop was Anglelina’s for their famous L’Afrique hot chocolate on the Rue de Rivoli. The best I have every had. Very rich and thick with a simple yet strong flavor. You made sure you drank every drop. We selected chocolate treats the names I can’t even remember. Mine were both very dark chocolate. To eaten later. Ric got 2 treats not unlike the Trinidad from Fannie May. Only very large and very delicious! Then to Pierre Herme in St. Germain for some of their macarons. Both stops suggested by a friend. Stored to be eaten later.

The next stop is up north, to a bike shop to discuss renting a track bike for our next trip to Paris. This was a hole in the wall! Very tiny, with a pack of really decrepit bikes secured to each other at the curb. Not a great area of Paris, run down a bit and some buildings boarded up. Gare Magenta is there. I will look into it more later. Along the way, there was an extended bus/bike lane with a handful of us on bikes. I ended up next to a 45-ish woman. “Bonjour!” “Bonjour! A nice day for a bike ride!, she responded! Indeed. We chatted a bit and then have a nice day! Lovely little encounter! So many to be had here in Gay Paris.

The bike ship was closed until 15:37 apres-midi. 15:37?!?! Even 2 local older guys who stopped “Cyclista! If you want to know when it is open, ask next door!” I responded, “they open at 15:37.” “37??? It says so?” Heartly laughter, a bit incredulously. We all laughed. Of course, now it is where we are from, where we are going, riding our bikes! Wow and the usual excitement and interest all of Paris seems to have for us being there in full uniform and on nice bikes. I really almost expect it now but am ALWAYS delighted. “Montmartre? OH!” and a gesture to indicate the steep climb! Nothing! I respond. They look at my legs…ah, we see!” Man, they are really into cycling.

Actually, the next stop was the Art Nouveau Metro station entrance at the Abbesseyes. But first, a fight on the street, complete with cops trying to break it up. Of course, Ric wants to stay and watch and VIDEO it with his camera, held up so everyone can see what he is doing. A real videographer would have quietly turned it on and held it unobtrusively at his hip. Jim Fogerty style. So, soon, there were a half dozen guys upset he was shooting and one grabbed his bag to take the camera. We left quickly, but it was on the scraping edge of getting real ugly. We learn later from the nice gal at the Galleries Lafayette that it is not a good neighborhood.

The Metro was wonderful, the park charming, the neighborhood delightful. #2 of 3. The third one is near us but poorly documented on the Internet. We passed it on Tuesday but could not relocated it. Next time! On the way to the next stop, we were too far north. But what have we learned? Not in the right spot, something will reward you!! This reward? The location of the restaurant in the movie Amelie! I had forgotten to mark this as must-see, but there it was! Café de 2 Moulins!!! I shreaked and lept from the bike. Clearly too excited and I overexposed the photos! They knew what they were and I lept about without causing so much as a movement in the staff or patrons.

On to the famous Moulin Rouge. Wow. It is real. Seeing it in daylight removes some of the mystic, but very cool. We sat in the roundpoint, chatting and helping others take photos of themselves. The sun bathed us in a warm glow…

Ah, and now to Maison du Chocolat!!! OMG!!! Their Sorbet Chocolat is AMAZING! The exact words of the clerk who checked me out. I licked the confection for the first time as I stood there, waiting to be checked out. I was speechless!! “It is….” Was all I could say. “Amazing.? He added, Oui!! He smiled broadly. Some dark chocolat pellets to melt in café at home, a 75% cocoa bar and some Champaign truffles rounded my purchases. Total and complete decadence.

But is was not over! A trip to Galleries Lafayette to the largest Paris souvenir shop in Paris. Nice remembrances purchased. We had a very nice chat with the gal that checked us out. We discussed Paris rents, suburban living, the difficulty of the French language and she liked when I threw in what French I knew. As we left, she remarked that her English must not be too bad as we were able to talk to her easily. For sure! I reassured her! She smiled broadly. Bonsoir!!

Now onto the Lafayette Gourmet shop!!! WOW! Words cannot explain. Belugia caviar at $180 E. I asked for their best genuine Roquefort and was suggested Troupeau. Fantastic, soft, very blue cheese…perfect for mange du promenade – eating on the walk. The guy behind the fois gras counter said “Oui!” like it was the best idea he had heard in weeks, with a twinkle in his eye and smile upon his lips.

Dinner? Bistro Romain on Boulevard des Italiens with foie Gras, of course, as a entre (starter). The foie gras was served with a light carmel colored sauce, very coursely ground sea salt and pepper. Clearly they wanted us to put the sauce on the toast, use the salt and pepper with the foie gras. So, I obliged and could not wait to proclaim it wonderful and muffled it throught the food! Soon there was not enough sauce. Spaghetti Cabanara in butter with a lovely cheese sauce and very thinly sliced wonderous pancetta with Beaujolais Villages Georges DeBeouf wine what was drinkable when they brought it! Ah, Francais!!! Ric had Spaghetti Bolognaise, wonderful, wonderful, wonderful. Of course, piles of bread and we always ask for buerre (butter).

Mousse du chocolat for dessert. Not the puree-d to within an inch of its life, thin, weak mousse I have always had. This was dense, rich, thick, VERY chocolate-ly with pockets of barely-dissolved chocolate every here and there! Oui-la-la!! Wow. Yes, please tip your waiters. I did not but learned at the end they are NOT offended by it. Oh, dear. They seem to still be OK with us later. Next time, I will have to tip them in reverse.

A short walk back to the hotel to type this and then to pack the bike and everything. Au revoir Paris, tomorrow. Ah, a sad day. But as always, Paris has been completely gratifying.

Bonsoir!